A number of months in the past, I went in to Goal to re-up on WetLine Xtreme Gel. As I scanned the shelf, I spotted that the blazing neon inexperienced lid on my beloved 35.28oz jar had been changed with a way more delicate navy one.
Just like the inexperienced lid jar, this one claimed to have 24-hour holding energy, so I assumed it was only a model refresh with a brand new label. I bought the jar, stashed it (since I nonetheless had an open one at dwelling), and did not assume twice.
Inside a couple of weeks, I used to be receiving DMs interested in whether or not WetLine was doing what so many different manufacturers have performed — pulling the previous method bait and swap. Swapping expensive components for cheaper (and typically extra dangerous) ones. A number of had even expressed concern in regards to the potential hurt of the brand new method.
I hadn’t cracked the lid on my new jar but — and I had no plans to till I received to the underside of issues. To seek out out what’s actually occurring, maintain studying!
The Outdated WetLine Excessive Gel
Product Substances
- Water
- Triethanolamine: Robust alkaline substance used as a surfectant, emulsifying agent, and pH adjuster.
- Polyacrilyc Acid: Polymer of acrylic acid, generally referred to as carbomer. Used as a binder, movie former, and viscosity growing agent.
- Carbomer: Chemical composed of acrylic acid monomers that acts as a viscosity controlling agent (thickener).
- Glycerin: Usually vegetable-based humectant that absorbs and retains moisture from the air.
- Sodium Polyacrylate: Informally referred to as “waterlock”, it’s a water-absorbing polymer that capabilities as an emulsion stabilizer, hair fixative, movie former, pores and skin conditioner, and thickener.
- Parfum (Perfume)
- Benzyl Alcohol: Perfume and taste ingredient that additionally acts as a preservative. Derived from naturally occurring vegetation or synthetically ready, benzyl alcohol is by no means associated to drying alcohol.
- Tetrasodium EDTA: Perfume and preservative ingredient designed to bind to and inactivate metallic ions — serving to to take care of readability, defend perfume, and stop rancidity.
- Methylchloroisothiazolinone: Preservative ingredient recognized to be a pores and skin allergen.
- Methylisothiazolinone: Broadly-used preservative ingredient recognized to be a pores and skin allergen. Additionally probably neurotoxic, however extra analysis is required.
- Panthenol: Vitamin B5, recognized for fast absorption into hair and offering moisture management.
- Methoxycinnamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine: Hair conditioning agent and UV gentle absorber.
- Ext. Violet 2: Artificial colorant.
- Aloe Vera Juice: Acts as a pure conditioning agent that restores the hair’s sheen, luster, and shine. It not solely makes the hair tender, but it surely additionally enhances energy and suppleness.
The “New” WetLine Excessive Gel
Product Substances (underline signifies a unique ingredient from the unique method)
- Water
- Glycerin: See previous method above.
- Carbomer: See previous method above.
- Sodium Hydroxide: Also referred to as lye — acts as a ph adjuster and buffering agent.
- Polyacrylate-2 Crosspolymer: Polymer designed to supply “superhold” properties.
- Phenoxyethanol: Preservative and perfume ingredient.
- Parfum (Perfume)
- Sodium Polyacrylate: See previous method above.
- Tetrasodium EDTA: See previous method above.
- Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate: Water-based preservative ingredient. Additionally recognized to trigger contact allergy points, and is acutely poisonous if inhaled.
- Hydroxycitronellal: Artificial scent ingredient used to supply perfume and masks odors. Additionally a recognized allergen.
- Panthenol: See previous method above.
- Methoxycinnamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine: See previous method above.
- Ext. Violet 2: See previous method above.
- Aloe Vera Juice: See previous method above.
My Ideas: Components Adjustments
At first, I assumed the adjustments in method would possibly’ve been minor — a preservative right here, a slip/consistency ingredient there. I. Was. Unsuitable.
After I lastly received round to opening the blue lid jar, I instantly observed a distinction in consistency. The “new” WetLine did not appear fairly as thick as earlier than — positively slightly extra on the slippery aspect. I attribute that to the push of glycerin additional up the record. Earlier than even contemplating a trial run with this jar, I needed to do extra analysis on one specific ingredient that appeared slightly *too* far up the record for my consolation — sodium hydroxide aka lye.
Sure, lye as in relaxer lye.
I do know lye is a needed element for saponification (cleaning soap making), I simply did not perceive why it wanted to be in my gel.
“…it could take as little as 3–5 drops of sodium hydroxide to regulate the pH from very acidic (2/3) to a extra pores and skin, scalp and hair pleasant pH of round 5–7. As a buffer, the hydroxide ions work to take care of this pH of 5–7 in order that it doesn’t change as you utilize it or probably put in some small quantities of contaminants e.g in case you scoop your conditioner out a jar, your hand could have water or gel or oil on it which might disrupt the conditioner pH. Sodium hydroxide takes care of that.”
TLDR: sodium hydroxide (lye) makes very acidic hair merchandise usable, and helps keep their pH stability/integrity, despite what could enter the container (water out of your hand, different merchandise on accident, and so on.).
After doing a bit extra analysis on the quick components surrounding sodium hydroxide (carbomer and polyacrylate-2 crosspolymer), I realized that each have been very acidic, with pHs that vary from 2 to three.5, respectively. Understanding this (plus the truth that my hair loves carbomer), made me slightly extra comfy with lye.
My Ideas: Product Efficiency
As with every adjustments to merchandise that I really feel did not want altering within the first place, I used to be aggravated at first. However then I assumed to myself, simply go forward and provides it a whirl. Upon software, I instantly observed the brand new method had extra slip, however did not really feel as weighty because the previous one. In my guide, that is a little bit of a disappointment, as a result of y’all know I like my gels thicky-thick and heavy.
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| wash and go along with tgin leave-in and this newfangled WetLine ish |
Execs
- The worth hasn’t actually modified. Round $4 for 35oz of product continues to be a steal (kinda)
- Slip in a gel is at all times good…
- It performed properly with my fave tgin Inexperienced Tea Depart-In (similar to the previous method)
- It nonetheless created a gel solid
- Among the extra suspect preservatives are gone
Cons
- The maintain is not the identical… it simply… is not
- Gel feels extra watery
- I’ve to double up on gel in my low porosity sections, making my hair extra flake-prone
- The shine is gone. IDK the place it went, but it surely ain’t right here.
- My day 3/4 hair seems to be rather a lot frizzier by comparability
- My hair feels dry after 3 days
- I really feel like we traded in sus preservatives for extra allergens — which does not bode properly for my delicate scalp
The Backside Line
I will not drag this alongside any additional. I am. Not. Feeling. It. At. All.
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| Outdated method wash and go along with tgin leave-in, for reference. |
The brand new method simply does not hit just like the previous one. If something, they need to’ve stored the OG inexperienced lid and made this new method part of a brand new line. The brand new method claims to have “improved fixation” and stage 10, 24-hour maintain. I am not satisfied. Degree 7 or 8 maintain, maaaaybe in case you use rather a lot. However 10?
Nah.
